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crucial wrote:I use a little low strength loctite at the moment, altghough I have also gone au naturel in the past

Did the bolts loosen when no loctite applied or is the blue stuff ok.. Just don't like the super high strength stuff.

RiceBurner wrote:

Skint wrote:

RiceBurner wrote:clean your pistons.....

Ta, good advice, but i change them every year... so i don't think that it's that that is causing it... But i hear that OEM is not always the best...

you need to clean the pistons every time you change the pads.

Fair point...

not tried it, but told by bm that to get the sidestand off you have to drill the bolt out as you will not undo it.. So sounds a bit like a pain in to be honest.

To anyone. the wavey dics are now 52.92 + vat, there is a ten percent reduction at the mo.

Crucial.. do you use loctite in the mounting bolts for the disc or preferrer the au natural??

RiceBurner wrote:clean your pistons.....

Ta, good advice, but i change them every year... so i don't think that it's that that is causing it... But i hear that OEM is not always the best...

crucial wrote:Skint,

I have wave discs from Talon (made by Italian firm, Braking). Can recommend them.

Paul.

I seem to be going through discs at about one set every 30 - 40 K.. They always come out warped. Didn't think that i was braking that severly... So how the talon ones hold up???

Has anyone used the EBC or Talon eng pattern discs??? If so what is the wear like..
I have OEM's and they are warped or buggered after about 40K, so want to try pattern ones...

Need to do my caliper seals, what is the red rubber paste for??? All the advice i get is to use the brake fluid as lube and lube the rubber to get it into the pot... So why the red rubber grease?????

I do the K&N on its own, i have a bulk standard bike. Only mod has been to take out the air box drain screws, as i can't be arsed to drain then, so they do it themselves after any run. The drain screws are on the clean side of the filter so why bother with an air filter at all? Ummm... yeah, ha...

I do the K&N on its own, i have a bulk standard bike. Only mod has been to take out the air box drain screws, as i can't be arsed to drain then, so they do it themselves after any run. There i go again off topic.... The K&N is fine, no difference, just means you can clean it and can leave th...

julian- i assume you completly removed the piston and rubber, was there any problem putting the old rubber back in?? All i can remember are car ones being a complete git..
How did you clean any corrosion in the pots?? Was it a right angle pick with inspection mirror?? or wet and dry??

How easy was it to put the old ones back in, i know mine are sticking due to salt loads of brake dust.. The Workshop manul suggests brake fluid to oil them?? i thought red rubber grease would be the best...

Has anyone used the front caliper overhaul kit?? what does it include?? I need to replace the pistons, but dont want to split the calipers as the orig loctite is volcanic heat proof... So will pump the pistons out , clean the tubes and replace new ones, but don't want lots of other crap from a kit.....

Taken from April RIDE magazine: There's another 27 but they get lower than 12/20 then (took out colour-fastness as is that really an issue in "hot" summer????), if you want a contact number shout which one and I'll post it Yes the colour fastness is an issue, if the dye is not colour fast it WILL b...