cleaning/rotting

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Fletchbox
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 7:54 am
Location: Hertfordshire

cleaning/rotting

Postby Fletchbox » Sun Feb 05, 2006 5:28 pm

Being a new owner, I have a few questions.

I heard someone say BMW wear quite well and don't rot: How true is this? I went out on my girlfriends ER5 in the wet/salt and didn't wash it for two weeks, when I did I was in the dog house as all the chrome was buggered and it looks 3 years older. Do I need to take more care of my BMW??

My local BMW garage uses a jet wash to clean the bikes does anyone recommend this as I am fed up with cleaning it already. The R6 was so much easier to maintain; just a quick rinse of the fairing.

Thanks in advance
Fletch
The pic: before I was converted!

wicker
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Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2005 8:57 am
Location: Falkirk, Scotland

Postby wicker » Sun Feb 05, 2006 6:31 pm

If you love your S, you'll clean it. It only takes 10 minutes with a hose and bucket to get rid of the salt so I tend to wash & dry my bike before putting it into the garage. After 6 years / 60k I have yet to see a rust spot.

Rods
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Location: north west london

Postby Rods » Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:10 pm

bmw, being the green minded company they are, use water based paints... which, unfortunately for us, means they don't stand up to winter weather and roads as well as we might like to think.

i try to clean my s every week/week and a half at this time of year (it's my only form of transport during the winter). after cleaning it, i coat (ie with a paint brush) the bike in acf 50, paying particular attention to the front forks, swingarm, shock, and frame.

i use acf 50 because it doesn't come of in the rain like the scottoiler pro 365 does... though i do occasionally use the scottoiler stuff as well, as it's quicker to apply with the spray on bottle.

you can get the acf 50 from m and p, or i get it from this chap...

http://www.jaws-motorcycles.co.uk/acf.htm

it really is the dogs danglies!! :D

richard is even using it on is hardley movin'son, and seems pleased with it's results.

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Ade B
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Postby Ade B » Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:35 pm

welcome to the world of exposed bits.....

if you don't uphold a fairly rigourous cleaning regime expect:

fork legs and brace to flake like buggery
all grey painted fasteners to corrode (you may have stainless ones already fitted).
engine paint to the front and underside of engine casing and cylinders to bubble and flake
expect the exhaust headers to tarnish

mine has done all of the above after three winters of constant use and I clean it sort of regularly....

you can't clean the front wheel and forks properly without taking the wheel off.

the wheels are a git to clean (compared with the R6..)

the paintwork on mine is fantastic and comes up shiney every time.. I wish I had spent a bit more care and attention to coating the thing in protective stuff when first acquired, once the paint starts to go on the engine/fork legs its a losing battle.

my personal bugbear and one of my least favourite pastimes on a cold dark winter's evening

despite the above - when ever I do clean the S, my non biking mates always comment on how shiney and clean it looks. Look a bit closer though....

Alternatively don't ride in winter.

Ade
2000 R1100S Sport
1980 Vespa P125X

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bmwonder
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Postby bmwonder » Sun Feb 05, 2006 10:16 pm

We have not had a drop of rain for two weeks but we have had he raods salted every night. The grit and salt is now about an inch deep at the side of the road. Bike is tucked away in the garage and the train is taking the strain.

Ditto ACF 50 and Scotoiler stuff. Top tip - use a small (model) paintbrush to apply ACF50 to all those difficult bits.

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crucial
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Location: Probably filtering on the M25

Postby crucial » Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:57 am

Or, you could like me, cover it up with a belly pan and ignore the fact that there's no paint left on the sump and front of the engine. :lol:

Ditto what everyone says about ACF50 it's top stuff................if only i'd used it sooner :roll:

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Harry
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Postby Harry » Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:18 am

See previous threads on re-painting lower fork legs and brace.
If your's are still in good nick, i'd recommend getting the front wheel off and getting some lacquer onto the fork lowers before they go.

Disk bolts used to go off and many on the board have gone down the stainless route, at least for the front end stuff.

As for cleaning the wheels I found the two prong brush from 'muck-off' cleaning kit does a good job as well as all the spray stuff.

Harry.

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Fletchbox
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Location: Hertfordshire

Postby Fletchbox » Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:21 pm

Cheers Guys, I will look into getting some of the scott oiler or acf50

Fletch
The pic: before I was converted!

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bmwonder
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Postby bmwonder » Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:38 pm

Horses for courses;

Scotoiler is light, cheap, easy and quick to apply although washes off easily so needs regular re-application.

ACF50 is expensive and a bit more time consuming to apply. Although once on should last quite a while. You shouldn't need to re-apply after every wash.

Personally I use both. ACF-50 every few weeks and Scotoiler after every wash.


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