This might be a daft question, but having removed my forks to paint the lowers, on putting them back, I'm faced with lining them up correctly, i.e., so they point forwards, which, to my shame I never considered till now. Is there some trick to this, trial and error, or tighten up the clamps after the wheel is back in?
Cheers
Fork alignment
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
Fork alignment
This ain't Twitter you know!
2003 R1100S with some bits on.
2003 R1100S with some bits on.
not sure about telelevers but on "normal" forks all I've ever done before is tightened the top yoke clamps and left everything else, bottom yoke, mudguard bolts, spindle and clamps loose then bounced up and down on the suspension with the brakes on to settle it all down then tighten it all up if that makes sense?
--
Steve Parry
Current fleet: '14 F800GS, '87 R80RS, '03 R1100S BoxerCup, '15 R1200RT LE Dynamic, '90 K1
Steve Parry
Current fleet: '14 F800GS, '87 R80RS, '03 R1100S BoxerCup, '15 R1200RT LE Dynamic, '90 K1
-
- Member
- Posts: 3619
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:35 am
- Location: North East
- Dai wiskers
- Member
- Posts: 1262
- Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:21 pm
- Location: Caerphilly
As hoss said put it all together and it will self align
Get the legs in the yokes first get the top clips in place then tighten from the top down (that's how i did it and it seems to work)
Get the legs in the yokes first get the top clips in place then tighten from the top down (that's how i did it and it seems to work)
My bike shines when it rains!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dyslexic Dai
Steptoe
http://www.gsshop.biz/
Dan Cata
http://boxer-upgrades.webs.com/
Lennie
http://www.boxer-performance.com/index.html
Dyslexic Dai
Steptoe
http://www.gsshop.biz/
Dan Cata
http://boxer-upgrades.webs.com/
Lennie
http://www.boxer-performance.com/index.html
slparry wrote:not sure about telelevers but on "normal" forks all I've ever done before is tightened the top yoke clamps and left everything else, bottom yoke, mudguard bolts, spindle and clamps loose then bounced up and down on the suspension with the brakes on to settle it all down then tighten it all up if that makes sense?
+1
Thanks for the replies. Yes Dave, the bike will probably be ready to ride this weekend apart from the hugger brackets, which I belatedly sent away for powder coating. That said, next winter will probably be more of the same, but think I'll change most of the relevant nuts and bolts for stainless then.
This ain't Twitter you know!
2003 R1100S with some bits on.
2003 R1100S with some bits on.
-
- Member
- Posts: 3619
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:35 am
- Location: North East
Think I'm going to give mine the works next winter (or the present winter if the weather doesn't get any better!). Haven't been out on mine yet and I've got a 2000 mile round trip to Garmisch in about 8 weeks time!! Bought a bike lifter thingy from Machine Mart on one of their VAT free weekends so ready for the Winter. At present my SR 500 is on it. I've had that almost 6 months and only stripped the front brake!
'15 R1200GS TE
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
Daveg2812 wrote:Corvus wrote:You had the front wheel powder coated?
apart from the hugger brackets, which I belatedly sent away for powder coating
This may be something widely known. If so, I apologise, but recently a friend and I tried to fathom a braking problem on his r1100s. We think it may be associated with powder coat paint applied to the end faces of the five disc mounting "platforms" cast into the front wheel. We think the disc was sticking to the paint when hot, preventing the disc from expanding properly, possibly distorting the disc temporarily. Maybe also preventing adequate transfer of heat into the wheel.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 73 guests