ACF50 how do you apply yours???

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Blackal
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Postby Blackal » Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:27 pm

Is it Pro-Care No 1?

Al
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Then plug me back in..........

See if that works .....
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StreetFlatTwin
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Postby StreetFlatTwin » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:30 am

I'm thinking of using a paint spraying kit and a small air compressor-that should be easy enough to get the desired misting effect shouldn't it??

I spoke to the guys at nippy Normans who agreed that the aerosol does give a big thick splurge of ACF but if I buy the litre it came with a pump bottle which is "slightly" better! I think I'll give the 1L a go and if the pump bottle isn't any better I can look at other alternatives!!

wicker
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Postby wicker » Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:43 pm

ACF50 seems to spray better if you have slightly warmed it. I usually leave the can on top of the central heating radiator for 1/2 hour whilst cleaning the bike.

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Steve1200S
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Postby Steve1200S » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:47 pm

Don't over pump the ACF bottle, if the pressure is too high you get a jet, rather than a mist.

I spray it on then spread it with a designated ACF rag.

It's probabley more use on your winter hack than the S though.....
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Vince
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Postby Vince » Tue Oct 23, 2012 12:10 pm

Steve1200S wrote:Don't over pump the ACF bottle, if the pressure is too high you get a jet, rather than a mist.

I spray it on then spread it with a designated ACF rag.

It's probabley more use on your winter hack than the S though.....


Agree with the above.The ACF bottle spray is good for touch up through winter once you've warmed it.

It's about now that I remove the plastics from my RT and get the cheapo paint spray gun I bought and the compressor out and use that to apply the ACF, it's a far better way of doing it as it really does atomise the ACF and allow it to get everywhere you can get to and doesn't over apply it.

ACF50 specific rag and a paint brush is good for top up through winter.
I tend to still hose off with COLD water after riding on salty roads mind, just not a proper clean as I don't want to remove the ACF.

Proper clean and a recaoat with ACF come Christmas
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Blackal
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Postby Blackal » Tue Oct 23, 2012 1:35 pm

I'm tempted to shut up and just buy ACF50 shares........ :roll:

If you are spraying it on - what the hell are you spraying it on to?

It sounds like you have found acres of untreated aluminium or magnesium on your bikes :?

Get a can of a hard cavity wax and spray it over the rest of the bike, using the ACF50 for bare bolts etc.......

You won't have to worry about destroying the cavity wax film with washing - in fact you'll need to go some to get rid of it :roll:


Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........

See if that works .....
:?

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Vince
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Postby Vince » Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:33 pm

It's the creepbilty of the Acf. I prefer, ease of application and removal. When the time comes.
And it works.
The OP asked about Acf application., just giving my methods of using it.
\v/
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2015 S1000rs

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2007 R1200RTSE

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Boxadog 2000
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Postby Boxadog 2000 » Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:18 pm

Clean bike to within an inch of it's life.

Remove body work & wheels mask of calipers.

Put regular aerosol can in ho water and keep a jug of hot water handy to keep the can warm


Mask off discs and spray ACF50 onto a small paint brush and paint wheels and spokes.

Re install wheels and then clean brake discs with brake cleaner.

Ride bike all through winter do not bother to wash at all.

End of February clean bike twice with S Doc 100 gel cleaner, polish hey presto bike looks like it just came out of the showroom ( ask other folks about the condition of my bikes)

Remember keep the can warm at all times a regular aerosol can is more than enough to do a bike well

One decent coat is enough to last all winter.

Takes me about 4 hours to do my GS Adventure start to finish

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Postby dave the german » Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:48 pm

with you on this Al, I used some waxoyl type stuff years ago on an R65 - ran it all winter and cleaned it off and the bike looked like new - was a bugger to clean off mind!!
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dysondiver
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Postby dysondiver » Wed Dec 05, 2012 6:27 pm

took me a while ,,, the really good thick scented wd40 stuff that works so well ,was called ,,,,,, break away. plain steel gallon tin yellow label from the motor factors , perfumed smell.
hope that helps some one
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el-nicko
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Postby el-nicko » Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:27 pm

Blackal wrote:Then get a leaf-blower and dry it off, paying particular attention to the brake calipers.

If you are storing it for 4+ months - take the brake pads out not a huge job) as it will save the galvanic action between the bronze flecks in the pads and the steel of the discs. They can pit a disc really badly over the winter.

(Don't forget to refit them in Feb :shock: )


Good idea 'bout brake pads. That galvanic action; Ugh :!: After getting caught out late one night a week or so ago on freshly salted roads, I washed my bike, dried it off as best I could (no leaf blower tho :cry:) and put it away. Took the cover off yesterday to see if things were 'ok' and wadyano :?: Could'nt rotate the front wheel 'cos the pads had stuck (rusted) to the rotors :!: I've got to use it over the holiday but next time I lay it up I'll be removing the bolts and moving the calipers to the very edge of the disc. That way the pads won't 'creep' together and the discs won't get pitted. I'll shove the workshop broom handle thru the front wheel to remind me to refit them :idea:.
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Dai wiskers
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Postby Dai wiskers » Sat Dec 22, 2012 8:53 pm

el-nicko wrote:
Blackal wrote:Then get a leaf-blower and dry it off, paying particular attention to the brake calipers.

If you are storing it for 4+ months - take the brake pads out not a huge job) as it will save the galvanic action between the bronze flecks in the pads and the steel of the discs. They can pit a disc really badly over the winter.

(Don't forget to refit them in Feb :shock: )


Good idea 'bout brake pads. That galvanic action; Ugh :!: After getting caught out late one night a week or so ago on freshly salted roads, I washed my bike, dried it off as best I could (no leaf blower tho :cry:) and put it away. Took the cover off yesterday to see if things were 'ok' and wadyano :?: Could'nt rotate the front wheel 'cos the pads had stuck (rusted) to the rotors :!: I've got to use it over the holiday but next time I lay it up I'll be removing the bolts and moving the calipers to the very edge of the disc. That way the pads won't 'creep' together and the discs won't get pitted. I'll shove the workshop broom handle thru the front wheel to remind me to refit them :idea:.


A piece of plastic oil container between the pads and disc's will do the job
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Postby Herb » Sat Dec 22, 2012 9:09 pm

I use fs365, summer and winter. Doddle to use, spray on when bike is wet, either after a wash, or after a wet ride. Job done.
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el-nicko
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Postby el-nicko » Sat Dec 22, 2012 10:35 pm

Dai wiskers wrote: A piece of plastic oil container between the pads and disc's will do the job

I'll give that a try too m8.
.



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Mr. Spock is my role model so be advised; I possess no (discernible) sense of humour.



It's all VFR (DCT) round here now. STILL missing my 1100s tho.

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Boxered
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Postby Boxered » Sun Dec 23, 2012 12:26 am

el-nicko wrote:
Dai wiskers wrote: A piece of plastic oil container between the pads and disc's will do the job



seriously? Oil container?
I'd go with a piece of plastic milk carton myself.

Steve
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