Advice please: removal of broken exhaust stud

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Henners
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Advice please: removal of broken exhaust stud

Postby Henners » Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:35 am

An exhaust stud on my 1100S snapped at the base of the domed nut when I tried to take the pipes off yesterday for polishing.

I have replacements however it's steel into alloy so should I heat the head around the stud? Penetrating oil required? I guess it's a left hand thread.

Your wisdom please ~ Tom

ceepee
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Postby ceepee » Wed Jan 27, 2016 11:57 am

why would it be a left hand thread ?

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beachcomber
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Postby beachcomber » Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:09 pm

Normal RH thread - we've had 6 of the buggers break / already broken on our project engines.

Replace with brass or phosphor bronze to eliminate any future probs.
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JamesL
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Postby JamesL » Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:42 pm

beachcomber wrote: Replace with brass or phosphor bronze to eliminate any future probs.


There's a thought. Will brass take the torque OK (I know it's not much)? And presumably smother in copper grease when reassembling etc.

At some stage I'm going to have to remove the rusted on header bolts for the GS. I doubt they've ever been moved since new and so far I've failed to shift them so I've let the sleeping dog lie. Is it worth having a go, or do I simply hand it over to a professional?

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Herb
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Postby Herb » Wed Jan 27, 2016 4:16 pm

I have seen so many people screw up castings trying to remove broken studs. Its not too hard with the right tools and technique to remedy, but if in doubt take it to a professional.
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Henners
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Postby Henners » Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:25 pm

Herb wrote:I have seen so many people screw up castings trying to remove broken studs. Its not too hard with the right tools and technique to remedy, but if in doubt take it to a professional.


Fair comment Herb however that means removing the cylinder head and I don't have the facilities to do that, so looking for tips and advice.

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ianbcr
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Postby ianbcr » Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:38 pm

you could try these, work well on normal rusted or broken bolts.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht526- ... tractor-s/
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Henners
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Postby Henners » Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:09 pm

Thanks Ian :)

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nab 301
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Re: Advice please: removal of broken exhaust stud

Postby nab 301 » Wed Jan 27, 2016 7:37 pm

Henners wrote:.

I have replacements however it's steel into alloy so should I heat the head around the stud? Penetrating oil required? I guess it's a left hand thread.

Your wisdom please ~ Tom


Luckily not happened to me yet..... all the advice I can offer is what I read on here and uk gser. Heat the stud ,(it'll need to be very hot) when it cools and contracts it may help break any corrosion. . Heating the head around the stud may help also. If you're removing any more dome nuts I'd drill the front of them first to allow you to spray penetrating oil / diesel into the threads and then heat the nut .
Last edited by nab 301 on Wed Jan 27, 2016 7:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Boxadog 2000
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Postby Boxadog 2000 » Wed Jan 27, 2016 7:38 pm

Dont go near that type of stud extractor they are rubbish.

You could weld a nut to the remaining bit of stud and use liberal amounts of plus gas not wd40.

I have mainly found it to be ahead off job though

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Herb
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Postby Herb » Wed Jan 27, 2016 7:51 pm

Henners wrote:
Herb wrote:I have seen so many people screw up castings trying to remove broken studs. Its not too hard with the right tools and technique to remedy, but if in doubt take it to a professional.


Fair comment Herb however that means removing the cylinder head and I don't have the facilities to do that, so looking for tips and advice.


Sorry Henners. My quote was directed to JamesL. He was asking whether to have ago himself or take his bike to a professional.
********Jim********

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Postby dysondiver » Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:04 pm

oxy acet , or one of those high tech mag induction heaters , if your rich a few heat and cool cycles , sheilding the head as moch as you can , then a good fast heat , and remove with a good sharp pair of vise grips , then use tungsten dry lube on re assembly is the only way ive found to work ,,, hth
its not a boxer , its a 180 degree v-twin

dysondiver
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Postby dysondiver » Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:06 pm

lol ,,, eleven pounds for a stud extractor set ,,, dont bother ,, just tear up a tenner , and throw it away , and your still a quid up.
its not a boxer , its a 180 degree v-twin

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Postby boxerscott » Thu Jan 28, 2016 1:54 am

Boxadog 2000 wrote:Dont go near that type of stud extractor they are rubbish.

You could weld a nut to the remaining bit of stud and use liberal amounts of plus gas not wd40.

I have mainly found it to be ahead off job though
Agree. Pro help needed here. LH thread... NOT. Leftie loosey, Rightie tighty :)
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Postby beachcomber » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:32 am

Every one of the broken studs we had to replace required head off, careful drilling and tapping. :(

In the good old days many OEM manifold flanges where attached using brass or phosphur bronze [ best ] nuts. Brass is OK for this application, not sure where you'd get pb nuts these days. :roll:

Remember, stainless is NOT a friend of alloy ! A pal of mine used stainless allen bolts on his Kay to eliminate any future seizing problems of the exhuast studs / nuts - good luck with that.
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